Tutorial: substituting yarn

Hello again

I apologise for the long gap between this and my last post, I had a stinking cold, the builders were back and there just seemed to be so much going on. That's life I suppose!

Anyway, back to yarn substitution. In order to visualise how substituting yarn might effect the final size of a garment, I knitted 9 swatches, each with a different DK yarn. All are 20 stitches wide and 20 rows long, within a garter stitch border. All were knitted with 4 mm needles.

I included yarns from both animal and plant origins as often changing from say wool to cotton, results in the most notable changes in size.  Looking at the image above you can see that even though they all look pretty similar, there are differences, some more obvious than others.

So, lets assume that I have a pattern for yarn 1. This is Drops Lima (65% wool, 35% alpaca) with a gauge of 21 st x 28 rows for a 10 x 10 cm square. My swatch of 20 st x 20 rows should measure 9.5 cm x 7.1 cm, which it does.

I will now go through each of the swatches to see how they would fare if substituted for yarn 1.

Swatch 2.  Rowan Purelife (100% organic wool). My swatch measures 9 cm x 6.5 cm so this garment would knit up smaller in both width and length.

Swatch 3.  Rowan Baby Alpaca (100% baby alpaca). My swatch measures 10.6 cm x 6.5 cm so this garment would be wider and shorter.

Swatch 4.  Rowan Tweed (100% wool). My swatch measures 10.5 cm x 6.5 cm so this would also knit up wider and shorter.

Swatch 5.  Perran Yarns Merino and Silk (75% organically farmed merino wool, 25% tussah silk). My swatch measures 9.5 cm x 6.2 cm so this garment would be the correct width but shorter.

Swatch 6.  Natural Dye Studio Angel DK (70% baby alpaca, 20% silk, 10% cashmere). My swatch measures 10 cm x 7 cm so this would knit up wider and very slightly shorter.

Swatch 7.  King Cole Cottonsoft (100% cotton). My swatch measures 10 cm x 7.4 cm so this garment would be wider and longer.

Swatch 8.  Rowan Pima Cotton (100% cotton). My swatch measures 9.8 cm x 7.2 cm so this garment would be slightly wider and slightly longer.

Swatch 9.  Rowan Summerspun (50% wool, 50% cotton). My swatch measures 9.5 cm x 6.3 cm so this garment would knit up the correct width but would be shorter.

I hope this hasn't been too confusing as I realise that most knitting books and blogs compare swatches by the number of stitches and rows. I wanted you to be able to see how the differences in yarn choice effect size.

These three swatches illustrate how substituting yarn can effect the size of the finished garment. They are all DK yarns but each would give you a different result.

I'm going to use these three swatches to illustrate how a hypothetical garment would look, knitted in each yarn. Lets imagine that you are knitting a plain jumper from the bottom up which requires you to cast on 150 stitches and the length from bottom to neck is 230 rows. The yarn in the top swatch would give you a width of 76 cm and a length of 40.8 cm. The yarn in the middle swatch would give you a width of 84 cm and a length of 37.4 cm. The yarn in the bottom swatch would give you a width of 80 cm and a length of 42.6 cm. If the pattern was designed for the yarn in the top swatch, the jumper knitted in yarn from the middle  swatch would be 8 cm (3 1/4 inches) wider which would make a significant difference to a garment that was fitted.

I hope this hasn't been too confusing. In my next post I will talk about what you can do to compensate for different gauge/tension. You may still be able to use that favorite yarn!

Cheerio for now.

swatching - a tutorial

Hi again

Following on from my introduction to substituting yarn found here , in this post I will be guiding you through the process of swatching. 

Swatching allows you to measure the gauge of your knitting, that is, how many stitches and rows there are to a given unit of measurement. This is also referred to as a tension square. I prefer the metric system so I use cm but on some yarn labels you may see inches. Most patterns now give gauge for 10 cm but occasionally I have seen stitches per inch or, more commonly, stitches per 4 inches. It is definitely a case of the bigger the better for measuring gauge as this will give you greater accuracy. If you are short of time you may be tempted to measure an inch or a couple of cm (I know I have) but any inaccuracy will be amplified when you knit up your garment which may make a significant difference to the fit. Also, don't be tempted to round up or down your stitch number, if your measured mark falls half way between a stitch, then do your calculations including the half stitch.

Everyone develops their own method of swatching, the following is the way I do it, having tweaked it over the years. I should point out that this method is aimed at producing a swatch in order to measure gauge or tension, swatching to try out different patterns can be any size. For example, a swatch of cables may be long and thin, it is entirely up to you.

 Step 1.

Cast on an appropriate number of stitches. If you have a label for your yarn this should show you the gauge, which may be in the form of a grid or as text.  Add on 10 or so extra stitches to allow for curled up edges.

The yarn for the label above has a gauge of 22 stitches per 10 cm so 30+ stitches would be a good number to cast on. If you don't have a label to guide you then estimate what you think you will need. Just cast on and keep going until you think you have enough. You will need to do this if you are combining two (or more) strands of yarn.

Step 2.

Knit your swatch to a length 1-2 cm longer than you want to measure. I add a garter stitch border around my swatches to give stability and reduce curling if I am knitting in stocking stitch.

 Step 3.

Cast off loosely, then wash and block your swatch. This step is particularly important if you are swatching patterned knitting, such as lace, as your blocked fabric will be a very different size to  unblocked. This brings up the point that your swatch should be knitted in the same pattern as the garment design otherwise you will end up with very different results.

Step 4.

Place a ruler or tape measure along the swatch, horizontally, and place a pin at each end of your measuring unit (i.e. 10 cm), through the rows of knitting. Count the number of stitches between the pins.

In the example above I counted 18 1/2 stitches. I find it easier to measure the gauge whilst the swatch is still pinned to my blocking pads. This stops it from moving around and keeps the stitches even. I use large foam pads for blocking (they look like huge jigsaw pieces), I got mine really cheaply from Amazon.  I like the flexibility of this system, you can join them together in a long strip for a lace scarf or make a huge square for a jumper.

Step 5. 

Now place your ruler or tape vertically and place pins along rows at each end of your measured length. Count the number of rows between the pins.

 

I counted 29 rows. In the photo below I have used an alternative to a ruler or tape measure. I made a square frame out of cardboard where the internal measurements are 10 cm by 10 cm.  It is easy to simply place the square over your swatch and count the stitches and rows. You can make it whatever size you wish, you just have to make sure that your angles are accurate at the four corners.

As you can see, my gauge with this yarn is 18 1/2 stiches and 29 rows to 10 cm, compared to the 22 stitches and 28 rows on the yarn label. Even using a pattern specifically written for this yarn I would end up with a garment the wrong size if I didn't swatch first. In my next post I will be discussing this further. What are the consequences of having a gauge different  to the one given in the pattern? Will the garment be too big, or too small? I will have lots of swatches to show you which I hope will demonstrate clearly how gauge affects the size of your finished garment.

Cheerio for now.